Cape Town, South Africa
Introduction
I must say right off, it was a moral dilemma for me as to whether or not I should include Cape Town on Girlports as a lesbian travel destination. I was in contact with more people (local lesbian/LGBT event promoters (with a special thanks to the Out of Africa film fest), LGBT newspaper editors (another big thank you to Glamorous Life), human rights activists and a couple dozen everyday Cape Town lesbians) in regards to this small listing than any other destination I’ve written about for Girlports.
Despite South Africa’s tumultuous history of political discrimination during (and some would say after) Apartheid, the country has some of the most “gay-friendly” laws in the world. On May 8, 1996 South Africa became the first country in the world to enshrine lesbian and gay rights in its Constitution. Same-sex marriage was then legalized in the country in November, 2006. Over the past decade, South Africa, and especially Cape Town, has become known as one of the new gay “hotspots” attracting queer travellers to its stunning natural beauty, fantastic beaches, glorious wine estates and mountain ranges. To boot, gay festivals such as Cape Town Pride, the Out in Africa Gay and Lesbian film festival and the Mother City Queer Project cultural festival attract thousands of revelers from around the world.
All sounds great, doesn’t it? Unfortunately, there’s also a darker side to South Africa for lesbians, especially lesbians living in the townships (generally speaking, townships are residential areas outside of urban centres that under Apartheid were reserved exclusively for non-whites.) Over the past couple of years at least five lesbians have been brutally murdered in rural or township areas of South Africa, quite likely because of their sexuality.
So that, to say the least, is both the dark side and the cause of my moral dilemma about including Cape Town as a lesbian travel destination on this site. From my North American perspective, it was easy to tell myself that I should just forget about listing Cape Town. But this situation, as I’ve learned, is not so cut-and-dry. Many in South Africa believe that violence in general is more widespread in the townships where these horrific killings occurred and that these problems are indicative of a greater societal problem overall in South Africa. This is not to downplay the situation in any way, but to contextualise it.
When you speak with lesbians living in Cape Town, they abhor and protest these terrible injustices, but also believe that their local community is growing stronger and that it is easier and easier for them to be openly gay while living their day-to-day life. South Africa has a difficult past that has caused problems for every marginalized group, but the local queer community is working hard to make things better for themselves, not only in Cape Town but across South Africa. Every single local lesbian I communicated with (dozens of them, both black and white) encouraged me to include Cape Town on Girlports for these reasons and more. They want women to visit their breathtakingly beautiful city, and to appreciate all it has to offer both the local lesbian community and lesbian tourists alike. As to your personal safety there… locals say it’s no more an issue in Cape Town than it would be in any other major city around the world.
I’d be very interested in hearing what you, dear reader, have to say about this. If you’re living in South Africa, have travelled there, or if you’ve just got an opinion, please give us your impressions of this situation in the comments section below.
On one last note, if you do travel to the Mother City, you won’t find a gay village per se, but there is what some locals are starting to call “the Pink Block” on Somerset Road in De Waterkant (Green Point). A number of queer establishments have opened there in recent months including a popular lesbian-owned spot, Beaulah Bar.
Another FYI, addresses are a little bit wonky here. Many establishments are only indicated by their cross-streets and not numbered addresses and as a result, our Girlports Passport mapping system doesn’t work for Cape Town. As well, many streets are in the process of changing their names (to remove any that may still have a connection to Apartheid) so addresses you may find in other guides could potentially be out-of-date.
I am a Black lesbian women currently a studying at the University of Cape Town and I thank you so much for this article. Yours is the first article I've read that gives voice to Black lesbian women in this country. Black lesbians are being targeted for "corrective" rape. I never once felt "safe" in this place. And the gay "scene" is not only dominated by men, but by white gay men. In a city that is predominately coloured and black it's a real shame when I go out to clubs in De Waterkant, I'm hit on by 30 something white lesbian women. Where are the 30 and up clubs? Where are Black women? My partner is a white woman and when she came to visit, she asked the same questions. "Gay capital" my...
Kristen on May 26, 2008
for us South Africans, Cape Town is known as the gay capital of S.A! and it is the most breathtaking and stunning city ever! it is generally guy dominated in the gay scene! but men and woman alike are ruling their territory as gay pioneers! it is truely a place to visit! and you will not be sorry for making the trip and taking the time!
illandra on May 14, 2008
I'm from Houston, Texas. I met and fell in love with my partner in Cape Town, her beloved home. We stayed all over Cape Peninsula – Camps Bay, Simons Town, Hout Bay, Tamboorskloof, Vredehoek, Bo-Kaap – and never once felt we couldn’t be completely open in our relationship. It was idyllic. I’ve been back twice and cannot wait to go again. I cannot recommend it more. Regarding the infamous crime… Use your common sense when traveling and keep in mind no metropolitan area anywhere in the world is completely crime free. Take the time to learn where it’s safe to go. If you’re not so interested in safe, and seek an in-depth cultural experience, take a guided tour through the flats or a squatter’s camp to get a real glimpse of SA’s poor and disenfranchised. Don’t do it on your own. It’s no surprise that’s where most of the crime is located. Be mindful and respectful of that and you’ll have no problems. Little Tip: Stay in luxury self-catering accommodations, rather than hotels. Cheers.
Wendy on Apr 21, 2008
I moved to Cape Town a year ago and I have never regretted my decision. Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities I have lived in. It is gay friendly and Cape Town as a whole, is very open-minded when it comes the Gay community. As with every country, whether it is a "First World' or 'Third world' country, there are crime problems and predudices. It is how each individual interputs the situation that makes the difference. So if your looking for a gorgeous, open, relaxing holiday destination, I'd suggest a visit to Cape Town but as with all major cities, keep your eyes open and don't walk down dodgy alleys late at night, as long as your in a group (4 or more) you'll be fine. Beaulah bar is one of the best Gay 'clubs' you can visit in our beautiful city and is relatively safe as there is always lots of people partying up a storm there :D
Candice on Apr 21, 2008
S.A. has been my home my whole life, and despite our difficulties, it really is a beautiful place to be, and a wonderful holiday destination. If you can ignore the power cuts and politics (we are in Africa remember...) then you will find lots of fun here. Plenty action, cheap booze, and magnificent weather. Come out and visit Cape Town!
Kay on Feb 13, 2008
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